Walking to eat !

According to my Fitbit we walked 35 kilometers and burned over 6,000 calories yesterday getting to Burgos. So, as you can imagine that justifies eating anything and as much of anything you want. (At least in my mind ) 

A commenter asked us about what and where we eat. 

Generally we start the morning with a typical Spanish breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice (really yummy ), cafe con leche  ( a necessity ) and a beautiful flakey croissant. Some mornings we get this where we were for the night but sometimes we start walking before anything is open so we will get it at the first village that has a place open. Sometimes that is 5 or 6 kilometers down the road. You really appreciate it then. 

After the morning meal we are back to walking, looking for the next meal. Some mornings we stop for an additional cafe con leche after a couple of hours. Mid day meals are varied in what we eat and the source. It may be a sandwich from a welcomed food truck strategically parked along the Camino or a picnic along the Way with food we purchased at a market. Of course there is always a bar with bocadillos ( sandwiches ) in just about every village. 

Once we finally arrive at our destination for the day we usually start planning on where to eat dinner. There are typically a few choices. Some of the Albergues ( hostels for pilgrims) offer a “pilgrim” meal which is communal with the other pilgrims staying there for the night. The food ranges from very good to well let’s call acceptable. Usually a soup or salad followed by chicken, fish or pork with some variety of a dessert. Ice cream or yogurt seems to be the standard fare. The best part is the camaraderie and making of new Camino friends. 

If we don’t eat in the Albergue many types and levels of restaurants are available depending on the size of the town we are in. Most villages/ cities have a bar or hundreds of tapa ( pinchos) bars offering very interesting and innovative small dishes. Occasionally we splurge and go to more upscale restaurants for some finer dining. 

Ok. Sorry for being so long winded. If you got this far then it is time for you to have a glass of wine and some pinchos.

Adios for now from Burgos 

Buen Camino. 

Uno Dia Tipica

Today we are staying in Gronon which is at the edge of the Rioja Region. Tomorrow we travel into the Castilla y Leon where we’ll be for the next 400 kilometers (I wish that didn’t sound so daunting!).

Each day we wake up to the noise of other Pilgrims making noise as they prepare to leave the hostel or pension. We spend a bit of time taping or bandaging our feet (sadly, blisters are unavoidable) and then prepare our bags to leave. 

We tend to get out the door around seven, but have needed our headlamps on several occasions when it’s earlier. Our first order of business is coffee! Fortunately, there is almost always a bar/cafe open in the village or city. We’ve become addicted to the Spanish cafe con leche, fresh croissants, and fresh squeezed orange juice. 

With that deliciosness in our tums we’re ready to walk. Some days villages are close together. Other days they may be 1-2 hours apart. With my bum foot we’re only averaging 4.7 kilometers per hour (about 3 miles). We walk about 12-15 miles every day. Because we usually stop for a second cup of coffee and sometimes for lunch we are walking about 6 hours each day. 

We usually arrive in our village or city between 1:00 and 2:00 . Then things get busy! We shower, hand wash clothes (unless we get lucky and the place has a washer) and hang our clothes on a line. Next, it’s time for beer or wine! A nap often follows. 

Procuring dinner is the next priority. Sometimes, like tonight, it can be purchased at the place we’re staying (tonight’s meal costs 8 euros and it’ll be wine, chorizo stew, fresh bread, and a big salad). It may be a communal meal like tonight or it may be necessary to find a bar or restaurant somewhere in the town. The subject of food and drink can and will be a blog all by it self!

After dinner we try to do correspondence or journaling. We make a plan about how far we’ll be walking and make reservations. We pack our clean clothes back into our packs and get as ready as we can for the next day’s walk. We try to do a bit of reading, but, often that’s only a brief time as we’re sound asleep and trying to revive our bodies for the new day. 

Who are these Pilgrims?

Today we took a day of rest. Yesterday we checked into a hotel in Logroño, a pretty city in the Rioja region of Spain. It felt good (after our longest walk yesterday of 28 kilometers) to know we could unpack our backpacks and not have to repack them in a few hours. We took long hot showers and a glorious, much needed nap. 

Rested, we headed into the city center to find friends we have made along the way. Many pilgrims have a tight schedule and never can take a break. We wanted to spend time with them and say our farewells. 

One of the things that makes this experience so unique and pleasurable is the camaraderie between Peregrinos. Pilgrims develop a bond sharing meals, conversations, stories, and yes, the pain. We have met so many lovely people. 

There’s Alice and Paul from Melbourne who are teachers and must walk continuously so they can catch their return flight to Australia and begin teaching the next day. Colleen (a Brit living in Burgundy) who is a “Caminoholic” and taught us much about Brexit. Brigitta and Berlina began their walk years ago when they stepped out their door in Germany and have walked in stages. Yongbae Lee has walked numerous days beside us or near us. We smile a lot with each other because he knows very little English. Alain is a lawyer from Montreal and he never fails to carry on interesting discussions. 

We don’t know if we’ll ever see these people again, but we appreciate how they have enriched our lives this past week. We look forward to (hopefully) seeing some of these same people as we journey on tomorrow, but we know we have so many more to meet. 

Which “Way” do we go ?

You may be wondering how do you know how to stay on the Camino as you move along from town to town.

The Camino Frances is heavily traveled and is very well marked. Actually most of the time you just follow the pilgrims ( peregrinos) in front of you. They may be right in front of you or way out in the distance but you can still tell which path to take. Sometimes though you do find yourself all alone and nobody in sight so you have to find the route yourself. There are many types of markers to indicate where the Camino route goes. You quickly learn to be alert for the many different indicators that show the Way. Arrows on the street, Camino shell signs on walls or sign posts or shell medallions embedded in the sidewalk. So it is actually pretty easy to follow the route as long as you pay attention every time you come to a possible turning point. I took some pictures of just some of the possible route indicators we have seen. 

Today we arrived in Los Arcos and are sitting in the plaza drinking Sangria and watching the people. Tomorrow we have a long walk, 27.6 kilometers, to Logrono in the Rioja wine region. 




These are just a few of the different Way indicators. It does keep you alert when you don’t have someone to follow.  Buen Camino 

Sleeping Arrangements

As we progress along the Camino we are learning so much about walking “The Camino.” It has become clear  you never know exactly what your sleeping arrangements may be like.  For instance, last night I (Chuck)slept with three women. It isn’t what you might be thinking (you dirty minded people). Actually we shared a room with two sets of bunk beds with two other Peregrinos who happen to be women. That is the way of the  Camino. 

Our daily walks take us through a variety of terrain and surfaces. It varies from asphalt, paver stone, soft forest soil to extremely rough rock and stone surfaces. After the Pyrenees the topography is called Spain flat which means your not crossing a mountain range. There are still many climbs and decents that are challenging. 

Today we arrived in Pamplona and haven’t seen a single bull so I guess we don’t need to run. Speaking of running with the bulls we did enjoy a beautiful lunch of grilled octopus ( polpo) and fried calamari ( calamares ) at the Iruma Bar which allegedly Ernest Hemingway used to hang out. ( Seems he hung out at a lot of bars throughout the world.)

Here are a few pictures from the last couple of days of places and people we have encountered. 

“Buen Camino”

Through The Pyrenees

It’s a happy day! After two days of hiking we made it over the Pyrenees, completing one of the most difficult legs of the walk. Yesterday was extremely steep and today was less steep, but long. Fourteen miles today and between the two days, at least 1200 meters of elevation. 

Hard work, yet unbelievable. Spectacular views of grass covered mountains, lovely Basque farms, herds of sheep and cows, horses roaming free, and wooded paths. We felt like we were on top of the world! 

We took many little breaks along the way (who’d have thought there’d be a food truck?) but our bodies didn’t feel overly tired, as our minds were  enjoying the view and talking to other pilgrims on our path. 

We had a delicious pilgrim meal at Orrison last night and met many people (lots of Canadians and Ausies). We will do the same tonight. And thenwe’ll crash. An even longer walk tomorrow. Can’t wait!

Finally

Finally! After years of dreaming and months of planning our Camino journey has begun. We are on “Our Way.”

London was lovely. Lots of family time, garden picnics, walking, pubs, museums, and high tea. 

Feeling quite upbeat, we left the Maurers’ home early this morning to board the Euro Star which took us through the Chunnel and into Paris. Then another train to Bayonne where we boarded yet another train. That train took us through picturesque villages to the small town of St Jean Pied de Port in the Basque region of France. 

We’ll spend a day here to enjoy this lovely little Pyrenees town. Thursday morning we’re off. The first leg is quite a climb, but rather short. We’re looking forward to walking through this countryside. 

Less than a month to go

We have continued our training by walking more hills and with backpacks. We had a couple good 16 km 

( 10 miles ) hikes during our recent trip to CA with 

shorter 8-12 km most other days. Training is a little     tougher in the AZ heat but hopefully will be                worthwhile on the warm days on the Camino. 

We think we have all the grear we need ( and             probably more ). In the end, we will make what we     have work. We can get rid of anything we find is not worth carrying or we can buy anything we find we      really need. 

Our flight to London on August 20th is coming           quickly. We will spend 6 days with Casie before we    start our journey by train to St Jean Pied de Port to    start walking the Camino on August 29th. 

All of the things Chuck will be wearing and/or 

carrying. (At least at the beginning) Kathy’s is about    the same amount. When packed the backpack         weighs about 13 lbs without any water bottles which. will add a few lbs. 

 

Chuck’s backpack with patches, poles and scallop    shell. The scallop shell tied on with a spare shoelace.  ( trying to dual purpose as much as possible)was       hand painted by Kathy is the symbol of the Camino. 

Buen Camino

Packing

Part of mentally preparing for our Camino is limiting 

our worldly possessions and vanity. 

Many items are necessary. Two days change of 

clothing, an extra pair of socks, a few first aid items 

(primarily for our feet), a headlamp for early morning walking. 

Some items are personal preference. For instance, 

walking sticks, sleeping sheet vs. sleeping bag, 

sweater, down vest, or wind breaker. 

Other items, however, which are keeping me up at 

night are the items I want to pack which make me feel good about myself. A small curling iron, a dress to 

wear to dinner, some blush. 

Which brings me to my purpose for walking in the 

first place. My initial interest in pursuing this endeavor was adventure. I love to walk and I love the outdoors. What a fabulous way to enjoy both. 

But my goals have developed with time. I continue to want this walking adventure. But I also want to experience personal growth. And one area I can work on is 

worrying about my outward appearance. 

I have six weeks to decide. Do I really need that 

blush, that curling iron, or that dress? Maybe when I begin my Camino I will, but maybe by the time I reach Santiago I will have learned to love myself without all of that !

Two months away

We are about two months away from beginning our   adventure. Starting to train a little harder. Walking     more miles and doing more hill climbing. Also, in our  final stages of acquiring all the required clothing and equipment we think we need and think we can carry. Every thing is a compromise between need and do I want to carry it for 500 miles We are getting very        excited about this trip which we have been talking     about doing for 5 years but now have the time ( since Chuck retired ) to do it the way we want to do it. We will try to keep you up to date on our preparation and our Camino as it progresses.

The route we will take and the end goal.