Almost There

Walking through Galicia has been a treat. It’s a  cooler, wetter climate so the area is more lush. For three days we’ve been walking through chestnut and oak forests on paths between old stone walls. Meadows and cows abound. Villages are composed of small farms scattered with chickens, cats, dogs, and gardens. Large orange and white pumpkins are lying in the fields and women are roasting pimento peppers above small stone stoves. 

We are 100 kilometers from reaching Santiago, and I can’t finish our walk without doing a blog about churches. For centuries people have walked The Camino de Santiago to reach the cathedral to pray for their cause where tradition has it that the Apostle James’ bones are interred. European Christian pilgrims could travel either to Rome or to Santiago. Pilgrims stepped outside their door and began their journey. They faced thieves, murderers, wild animals, and the elements. And, if they even made it to Santiago they had to turn around and walk back (the thought of that horrifies Chuck and me!). 

Today’s pilgrims walk for a myriad of reasons. But, whether it’s a spiritual journey or a hike the path takes every pilgrim via the village hermitage, the monastery, the church, or the cathedral which are always centrally located in the old town or city. Because of these churches we’ve seen and learned about the history, the architecture, the art and artisans, beliefs, and politics of this area. Did you know that it was the mission of the Templar Knights to protect pilgrims?
 

We have toured and visited churches and cathedrals that are magnificent. We discuss the money and labor involved. The magnificence of them was meant to awe, teach, and inspire believers. 

Funny but speaking to fellow pilgrims today, most of us prefer the smaller “ermitas” along the way. Maybe because our modern lives are so busy and we’ve seen so much we find these simpler places to be more inspirational. 

In many of the larger churches there are special pilgrim masses or pilgrim blessings. And, smaller churches in the villages are often open and walkers may step inside to light a candle, say a prayer, reflect, or just get a stamp in their book. 

Today we’ve walked from Sarria to Portomarin. We’ve showered and done our laundry like every day on the Camino. We’re ready for our evening ritual of wandering the town, grabbing a drink and a bite to eat in the plaza, and checking out the local church if it’s open. So, until later, “Buen Camino!”