Hugs, Kisses, and No More Steps

We did it! We walked into Santiago at noon yesterday. About 800 kilometers or about 500 miles. So hard to believe.

We entered through a tunnel of stairs with Celtic music and anticipated an uplifting but reverent square. However, we stepped out into a huge plaza in which the Santiago Cathedral sits and found ourselves in the midst of a giant circus! There were tour buses, a tourist train, a large venue of children’s basketball tournaments,  vendors, and a broadcasting radio station. But, of course! This is the city’s main square and the locals put it to good use. 

And, although far from what we expected we found an area of celebrating pilgrims and gave and received high fives, hugs, and kisses. We took each other’s photos. We went to a bar and celebrated with drinks. 

Our Camino had come to an end. We felt a myriad of emotions - excitement, joy, pride, thankfulness, and even some disappointment. 

Today we’ve been wanderers. We’ve met with friends and said some goodbyes. We’ve explored this beautiful city. And, we’ve thrown away some clothes. We would have liked to throw them all away, but we still need something to wear for a few days! 

Tomorrow we go on a bus tour to Finisterre to see the coast. We’re staying in The Parador Hotel as a treat to ourselves Monday and Tuesday. On Wednesday we fly to London and get to see our family which is always a wonderful thing. 

We’re excited to return home. We have experiences and memories to fill our brains for many months to come. 

Thank you all for following along with our blog. We loved hearing from you and felt as if you were a part of our journey!

Buen Camino. 

Water and other beverages

When you walk 20-30 kilometers a day you think much more about where will I get enough to drink. Like everything on the Camino you have to carry what you need so it is important to carry enough but not much more than you need. Fortunately there is water available all along the Camino from public fountains. You do have to check to make sure the water is potable . It is normally good to drink and if it isn’t it is marked with words or symbols that indicate it is not potable. You do have to pay attention though. The water from these potable fountains is very good and generally very cool. The fountains come in many varying shapes and sizes from plain to very ornate. In any case water is important and always a factor in our daily planning. 

Of course other beverages are a part of the daily routine. We also drink other drinks in the day to help give us an energy boost to keep our legs moving. A gator aide like drink called Aquarius is great for a boost of energy with some of the nutrients your muscles need. Also, Coke tastes great and has lots of sugar and caffeine. Both essentials for making it up the hills late in the day. I have consumed more coke in the last month than I have in the last 40 years. So sell your Coca Cola stock because we arrive in Santiago in two days. Therefore sales will drop significantly !

The locals, different from the pilgrims are frequently in the bar at 10:00am drinking a beer or glass of wine. I would love a beer at ten after already walking 15 kilometers but I would not be able to walk 10 or 15 more kilometers. Thus, the glass of coke and keep on walking. 

The cana ( draft beer ) when you are done walking is the best beer you ever drank. Until the next days beer. 

Sometimes a gin and tonic is the beverage of the day. 

We are only about 40 kilometers from Santiago with two fairly easy days to reach Santiago on Saturday. I’m sure we will spend a great deal of time contemplating what this whole adventure has meant to us and what we have learned about ourselves. It has been a glorious time with each other and all of our new Camino family. 

I

Buen Camino

Almost There

Walking through Galicia has been a treat. It’s a  cooler, wetter climate so the area is more lush. For three days we’ve been walking through chestnut and oak forests on paths between old stone walls. Meadows and cows abound. Villages are composed of small farms scattered with chickens, cats, dogs, and gardens. Large orange and white pumpkins are lying in the fields and women are roasting pimento peppers above small stone stoves. 

We are 100 kilometers from reaching Santiago, and I can’t finish our walk without doing a blog about churches. For centuries people have walked The Camino de Santiago to reach the cathedral to pray for their cause where tradition has it that the Apostle James’ bones are interred. European Christian pilgrims could travel either to Rome or to Santiago. Pilgrims stepped outside their door and began their journey. They faced thieves, murderers, wild animals, and the elements. And, if they even made it to Santiago they had to turn around and walk back (the thought of that horrifies Chuck and me!). 

Today’s pilgrims walk for a myriad of reasons. But, whether it’s a spiritual journey or a hike the path takes every pilgrim via the village hermitage, the monastery, the church, or the cathedral which are always centrally located in the old town or city. Because of these churches we’ve seen and learned about the history, the architecture, the art and artisans, beliefs, and politics of this area. Did you know that it was the mission of the Templar Knights to protect pilgrims?
 

We have toured and visited churches and cathedrals that are magnificent. We discuss the money and labor involved. The magnificence of them was meant to awe, teach, and inspire believers. 

Funny but speaking to fellow pilgrims today, most of us prefer the smaller “ermitas” along the way. Maybe because our modern lives are so busy and we’ve seen so much we find these simpler places to be more inspirational. 

In many of the larger churches there are special pilgrim masses or pilgrim blessings. And, smaller churches in the villages are often open and walkers may step inside to light a candle, say a prayer, reflect, or just get a stamp in their book. 

Today we’ve walked from Sarria to Portomarin. We’ve showered and done our laundry like every day on the Camino. We’re ready for our evening ritual of wandering the town, grabbing a drink and a bite to eat in the plaza, and checking out the local church if it’s open. So, until later, “Buen Camino!”