Horses and people

Today was another untypical day on our Camino. We started by riding horses from Herrerías  up a 7.5 kilometer mountain trail to O Cebreiro. Victor, a former economist who now owns the six horses and leads the ride up the mountain everyday. He walks while everybody else rides. He then brings the horses back down the trail to do it again some days.  Needless to say he is in very good condition. He arranges for lunch upon  arrival in O Cebreiro. A very delightful man who is living the life he loves and enjoys. He does travel the world extensively when his horse business is closed in the winter. 

Among the other people we have made friends with are  a recently retired college president and his wife from the U.K. They moved ahead of us when we took a day off in Astorga to visit the chocolate museum. So we are now stretching our walks to try to catch up with them and our other Camino friends Rick and Donna from New Hampshire. We did reconnect last night with our wine making Camino friends from Colorado, Kevin and Gina. We actually had lunch with them but they were staying in that village and we walked on another 12k to our planned stop. We do have plans to reconnect with them in Santiago. 

One of the most fun parts of the Camino is meeting and remeeting people as well as making new friends from all over the world. While eating lunch today Kathy jumped up and ran out of the bar. She had spotted the young Korean man ( Yongbae Lee) we had walked with for many days early in the Camino but had not seen in a couple of weeks. Last week we met a woman from Namibia. Who would have thought. 

Young and old walk the Camino. We befriended a wonderful young woman ( Isabelle ) who is walking the Camino alone  during her gap year before she will attend William and Mary University. She is fluent in Spanish, French and English and a delightful young lady. It seems everyone walking knows Isabelle. 

Kathy talked to two young women walking alone and discussed if they had any fears on the Camino. They said they never felt safer traveling as they do on the Camino. It is an international community that watches out for each other. 

The Camino is a joyful place with many wonderful people from all over the world all walking the Way for their own personal reasons. We are looking forward to our final week of walking as we expect to arrive in Santiago on Oct 5. 

Isabelle with Kathy and her father who joined her for just 3 days of walking. We were lucky enough to see them in Leon where he joined her. 

On to a Santiago. 

Buen Camino

Who Knows

This evening we’re on top of the world! We’re in a tiny little village (Foncebadón) on the second floor of a hostel near the highest point on The Camino. We can see Astorga in the distance where we stayed for the last two nights. 

As Chuck said in his blog, often things happen that you never expect. For instance, a few days ago as we were walking down a deserted country road we saw a man sitting in the drivers seat throwing his fishing line out the window and into the ditch. He’d fling his line back into his car with what appeared to have been frogs! 

And, while walking down the hill into Astorga an eccentric older gentleman was playing his Spanish guitar. He made up a delightful, but goofy song about Americanos Peregrinos! 

That guitarist reminded us of the woman earlier in our walk who was sitting under a tree on a small stool serenading pilgrims with her accordion. 

We are often amused by single shoes sitting beside the road. Did the walker have a blowout? And, how about pharmacy vending machines which sell knee braces, feminine products, and drugs among other items! G

We’ve run across an archery meet in the middle of nowhere, a crawdad with claws snapping ready to defend his road, and a farmer’s tractor flinging cow poop in his field (as well on the pilgrims walking on the trail)! 

One of the things I’ve seen and fallen in love with is play equipment for adults in or beside children’s playgrounds. What a great idea!

We are now walking in a new region. We’re back in the hills and mountains, currently in Maragato which has a distinctive and rich cultural heritage. Chuck is an adventurous eater, so he ordered a traditional Maragotan meal a few days ago. First came a platter of five meats (blood sausage, and four other indistinguishable meats).  He thought he was finished when the second course arrived which was a very large plate of chick peas, boiled potatoes, and cabbage. He could hardly dent that course when the next course arrived. It was a bowl of broth with a few noodles. To top it all off a pudding was then served. Needless to say, he won’t be ordering that again!

We climb to Cruz de Ferro in the morning to leave our stones. Then we continue on to the town of the Templar’s Castle. Who knows what we’ll encounter on The Way!

Buen Camino

City Life

Today we walked about 25 kilometers to a little town (Villavante) on the way from Leon to Astorga. It actually felt good to walk again after taking a full day off yesterday in Leon. The day off was a welcomed relief especially since it rained all day and we didn’t have to walk in the rain. 

We have now spent 3 days of not walking in the three of the biggest cities ( Logroño, Burgos and Leon ) we have gone through. We have found the activity in the cities has a definite rhythm that is quite different from US cities. We typically arrive in the cities around 2:00pm which is exactly when things shut down for siesta. The smaller towns are like ghost towns from 2pm until 5pm and even the large cities definitely slow down also. 

In the larger cities it seems everyone in town comes out about 6pm and strolls around or stops in one of the many bars with outdoor seating. The usual fare is a beer, glass of wine, or coffee and maybe a small snack which comes with the drink. The streets around the Plaza Mayor ( every city has one ) have few cars and are basically walking streets lined with outdoor bars/cafes. It can be very crowed in the bars and a challenge to get a drink or food ordered. Nobody seems to be in a rush and they are just out to have a drink and socialize with their friends and neighbors. It is a very happy and relaxing phenomena we could use a little more of in the US. 

If you want to eat a full meal in a restaurant you will be waiting until at least 8:00pm or later for most restaurants to start serving. Some of the places where pilgrims are staying will serve dinner earlier (7:00-7:30) because pilgrims tend to start their mornings around 6:30am and a late dinner doesn’t work so well. 

Some things happen on the Camino that you never expect. We decided to stay in a nicer hotel, instead of an albergue,  for our two nights in Leon. Upon checking in after walking all day the desk clerk left for a moment and returned with some Tee shirts for pilgrims that he presented to us. ( Of course they had the hotel name on it for some free advertising)   We graciously accepted our gift and went to our room.  We wondered if they gave us the shirt as gratitude for our business or because pilgrims tend to smell pretty bad by the end of the day and could really use a clean shirt. In any case I was happy to have a different shirt to wear that was already clean. 

Tomorrow we are off to Astorga where we will be taking a day off from walking.  We want to visit the chocolate factory which is closed the day we arrive. We do still have priorities beyond the Camino. 

Today we passed the 300k remaining point. Yahoo. These milestones seem pretty significant to us at the time. 

Sorry the pictures don’t really represent the message as well as we would like. iPhone cameras  don’t capture those Kodak moments as well as we would like. 

Buen  Camino

Halfway and Beyond

Yesterday we walked past the halfway point. 
Time to reflect on the journey completed thus far. Being more knowledgeable would I still say yes to this walk? Absolutely! 

Why? For so many reasons. I’m seeing a region of Spain up close and personal. I’m experiencing its food, its culture, its people, and its land. I’m experiencing peoples’ kindness on a grand scale. Every morning when the sun comes up and I’m placing one foot in front of another my only job is to keep on the trail, reflect, be curious, and converse with Chuck or other peregrinos we’re near. Pretty amazing! (To be fair, though, after the 15th mile of walking I’m neither blissful nor contemplative, but quite the opposite!)

Two nights ago was the most spectacular storm I’ve ever seen. Lightning for an hour. Wind and torrents of rain. As I was lying in bed all I could think about is what we would have done if that had happened somewhere out on the meseta. Yikes! I’m very thankful it happened after we were settled in our hostel.

Speaking of our hostel, we have been so impressed with the people who run the hostels, pensions, and private alburgues. Often, it’s a family. Some of them are up by 7:00 to provide breakfast to the pilgrims. They clean the beds and rooms for the next wave of walkers. By 1:00 or 2:00, they’re busy checking new walkers in and waiting on the pilgrims’ needs (food, ice for feet, laundry, serving beverages). They continue providing service until they close up the residence around 10:00.  There are exceptions, but for the most part they do it with a smile 7 days a week. I realize the Camino has brought jobs and money to many of these villages, yet I don’t know how patient I’d be on such a continual basis. It’s quite admirable. 

Just one more day of walking and we’ll be in León. It feels like a big milestone. We think of all of you often and hope you’re having a good September. Buen Camino

Another day another 30,000 steps

Today we arrived in Carrión de los Condes after logging about 30,000 steps on the Fitbit coming from Frómista. We started a little later this morning so we could eat breakfast at our hostel. The previous two mornings we have had to walk about 10k before our first cup of cafe con leche. That was not going to happen again today. We really like starting early and walking a little while in the dark ( using a headlamp for navigation). The sunrises are spectacular and worth getting up for. Also, the temperature is much cooler and enjoyable for walking. Distance to the first coffee has become a major factor in our start time in the morning !

The distance and the weight we are carrying is starting to take a toll on our bodies. We visited the local Farmacia to replenish our supply of ibuprofen, tape and bandages for our feet and a knee brace for my knee. My knee was quite sore walking today so I spent the afternoon icing and resting it. Hopefully I can baby it along until we get to Leon where we are going to take at least one additional day off from walking. You can always identify fellow pilgrims when walking around the town because almost all have a limp, bandaged feet, a knee brace or all the above. 

In spite of pain we are still having a great time seeing the country side (even the much maligned Meseta. ) Yesterday in the middle of nowhere we came upon a canal with a small ferry going up the canal. Unfortunately it was going the opposite direction from us. We would have gladly paid the two Euros to ride it to where we were headed if it had been going our Way.

 Also, we have enjoyed spending time with “ old “ Camino friends and making new ones. So many interesting characters walking the Camino. The small pain is worth the rewards. 

Adios and Buen Camino. 

Creatures

We are now walking across The Maseta, the expansive, flat plains of central Spain. It will take us approximately 10 days to cross it. Tonight we are in the quaint and historical town of Castrojeriz. We’re looking forward to a communal dinner here that is cooked by the hostelier’s wife followed by a tour of his old press and wine cellar!

Besides forests, streams, rivers, and a plethora of villages we are entertained during our walks by various domesticated animals (we have seen very little wildlife). Herds of sheep, sheep dogs and shepherds have crossed our path. The cows wear bells and are unusually beautiful! Over the Pyrenees we saw horses roaming wild. In some villages we’ve been tricked by caged birds calling out to us. Once we were passed by a pilgrim with a donkey. We thought of primitive times until we noticed the donkey had a GoCam strapped to his pack! Often we’ve watched playful kittens outside of barns or cats scurrying among old stone ruins. The cats are  small and thin here but very cute.

Of course there are dogs who let us pet them which never fails to bring a smile to our faces. Last night at our hostel we met the hostelier’s young lab, Gringo Starr. Isn’t that the greatest name?

Today, we walked through the ruins of San Anton’s monastery. Saint Anthony is the patron saint of animals. So, naturally, I had to stop in for a minute to feel thankful for the animals in our lives; Buck, Dodger, Squirt, Tessy, Ann & Harper, Ella, Sumo, Ally, Sandy, and Rocky. I left a medallion in a niche and put in a request for The Saint to be sure to take good care of our Marley. Sure hope she’s getting to chase lots of rabbits in dog heaven!

Day 16 of walking tomorrow and only about 443 more kilometers to go (about 265 miles)!

[We understand that it’s difficult or impossible to put comments in the blog. We don’t know why?? But, we’re loving it when you text us via WhatsApp or email us. Thanks everyone. It’s been great hearing from you.] 

Walking to eat !

According to my Fitbit we walked 35 kilometers and burned over 6,000 calories yesterday getting to Burgos. So, as you can imagine that justifies eating anything and as much of anything you want. (At least in my mind ) 

A commenter asked us about what and where we eat. 

Generally we start the morning with a typical Spanish breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice (really yummy ), cafe con leche  ( a necessity ) and a beautiful flakey croissant. Some mornings we get this where we were for the night but sometimes we start walking before anything is open so we will get it at the first village that has a place open. Sometimes that is 5 or 6 kilometers down the road. You really appreciate it then. 

After the morning meal we are back to walking, looking for the next meal. Some mornings we stop for an additional cafe con leche after a couple of hours. Mid day meals are varied in what we eat and the source. It may be a sandwich from a welcomed food truck strategically parked along the Camino or a picnic along the Way with food we purchased at a market. Of course there is always a bar with bocadillos ( sandwiches ) in just about every village. 

Once we finally arrive at our destination for the day we usually start planning on where to eat dinner. There are typically a few choices. Some of the Albergues ( hostels for pilgrims) offer a “pilgrim” meal which is communal with the other pilgrims staying there for the night. The food ranges from very good to well let’s call acceptable. Usually a soup or salad followed by chicken, fish or pork with some variety of a dessert. Ice cream or yogurt seems to be the standard fare. The best part is the camaraderie and making of new Camino friends. 

If we don’t eat in the Albergue many types and levels of restaurants are available depending on the size of the town we are in. Most villages/ cities have a bar or hundreds of tapa ( pinchos) bars offering very interesting and innovative small dishes. Occasionally we splurge and go to more upscale restaurants for some finer dining. 

Ok. Sorry for being so long winded. If you got this far then it is time for you to have a glass of wine and some pinchos.

Adios for now from Burgos 

Buen Camino. 

Uno Dia Tipica

Today we are staying in Gronon which is at the edge of the Rioja Region. Tomorrow we travel into the Castilla y Leon where we’ll be for the next 400 kilometers (I wish that didn’t sound so daunting!).

Each day we wake up to the noise of other Pilgrims making noise as they prepare to leave the hostel or pension. We spend a bit of time taping or bandaging our feet (sadly, blisters are unavoidable) and then prepare our bags to leave. 

We tend to get out the door around seven, but have needed our headlamps on several occasions when it’s earlier. Our first order of business is coffee! Fortunately, there is almost always a bar/cafe open in the village or city. We’ve become addicted to the Spanish cafe con leche, fresh croissants, and fresh squeezed orange juice. 

With that deliciosness in our tums we’re ready to walk. Some days villages are close together. Other days they may be 1-2 hours apart. With my bum foot we’re only averaging 4.7 kilometers per hour (about 3 miles). We walk about 12-15 miles every day. Because we usually stop for a second cup of coffee and sometimes for lunch we are walking about 6 hours each day. 

We usually arrive in our village or city between 1:00 and 2:00 . Then things get busy! We shower, hand wash clothes (unless we get lucky and the place has a washer) and hang our clothes on a line. Next, it’s time for beer or wine! A nap often follows. 

Procuring dinner is the next priority. Sometimes, like tonight, it can be purchased at the place we’re staying (tonight’s meal costs 8 euros and it’ll be wine, chorizo stew, fresh bread, and a big salad). It may be a communal meal like tonight or it may be necessary to find a bar or restaurant somewhere in the town. The subject of food and drink can and will be a blog all by it self!

After dinner we try to do correspondence or journaling. We make a plan about how far we’ll be walking and make reservations. We pack our clean clothes back into our packs and get as ready as we can for the next day’s walk. We try to do a bit of reading, but, often that’s only a brief time as we’re sound asleep and trying to revive our bodies for the new day. 

Who are these Pilgrims?

Today we took a day of rest. Yesterday we checked into a hotel in Logroño, a pretty city in the Rioja region of Spain. It felt good (after our longest walk yesterday of 28 kilometers) to know we could unpack our backpacks and not have to repack them in a few hours. We took long hot showers and a glorious, much needed nap. 

Rested, we headed into the city center to find friends we have made along the way. Many pilgrims have a tight schedule and never can take a break. We wanted to spend time with them and say our farewells. 

One of the things that makes this experience so unique and pleasurable is the camaraderie between Peregrinos. Pilgrims develop a bond sharing meals, conversations, stories, and yes, the pain. We have met so many lovely people. 

There’s Alice and Paul from Melbourne who are teachers and must walk continuously so they can catch their return flight to Australia and begin teaching the next day. Colleen (a Brit living in Burgundy) who is a “Caminoholic” and taught us much about Brexit. Brigitta and Berlina began their walk years ago when they stepped out their door in Germany and have walked in stages. Yongbae Lee has walked numerous days beside us or near us. We smile a lot with each other because he knows very little English. Alain is a lawyer from Montreal and he never fails to carry on interesting discussions. 

We don’t know if we’ll ever see these people again, but we appreciate how they have enriched our lives this past week. We look forward to (hopefully) seeing some of these same people as we journey on tomorrow, but we know we have so many more to meet. 

Which “Way” do we go ?

You may be wondering how do you know how to stay on the Camino as you move along from town to town.

The Camino Frances is heavily traveled and is very well marked. Actually most of the time you just follow the pilgrims ( peregrinos) in front of you. They may be right in front of you or way out in the distance but you can still tell which path to take. Sometimes though you do find yourself all alone and nobody in sight so you have to find the route yourself. There are many types of markers to indicate where the Camino route goes. You quickly learn to be alert for the many different indicators that show the Way. Arrows on the street, Camino shell signs on walls or sign posts or shell medallions embedded in the sidewalk. So it is actually pretty easy to follow the route as long as you pay attention every time you come to a possible turning point. I took some pictures of just some of the possible route indicators we have seen. 

Today we arrived in Los Arcos and are sitting in the plaza drinking Sangria and watching the people. Tomorrow we have a long walk, 27.6 kilometers, to Logrono in the Rioja wine region. 




These are just a few of the different Way indicators. It does keep you alert when you don’t have someone to follow.  Buen Camino